A Hasty Review of Morocco’s Trains

I went to Morocco for a few days to see my mom and while I’ll write about that in another post, I thought I’d write a separate post on the train trips I took. I wish I could have taken more trains but my sister was tired so I couldn’t take it from the airport when I arrived and the second time I couldn’t take it from Marrakesh since it would be extremly late so we opted for an city-to-city InDrive instead.

[!NOTE] USD$1~MAD10/10Dhs

Trip 1: Ben Guerir to Rabat

I still had a full day left in Morocco so I decided to head to Rabat. It would have been Tangier but it would have taken too long. I tried to get up early so I could get more time in Rabat, but the place I was staying didn’t have taxi’s so I had to walk to the main road to get a taxi which took a while.

Eventually I got to the station at 7:45am while it was still dark out. I thought I could pay with the machine but they didn’t take cash so I went to the ticket counter instead. For 170Dhs I got a 2h30min direct second class ticket to Rabat Ville that would leave at 8:35 using the TNR train.

It was a terrible wait given how cold the station is as well as how ther were no restaurants nearby but soon enough it was time to board. I showed the station guy my ticket and he told me to go under the tracks to get to my platform.

Eventually the train pulled up and I had to find my seat. I didn’t realize that my seat was assigned to a particular compartment in a particular car so I had to wall all the way to it. Eventually I found my compartment and took a seat and soon enough we were off. I wish I could take a picture but there were people so I couldn’t. Just know that second class has 8 blue seats in the rooms and I tiny table by the window.

The ride was pretty comfortable and I was suprised that we hit a top speed of 160km/h (100mph) on some segments. After a couple of stops the food cart came around and I got some Pringles and some hot chocolate. It cost 38Dhs and the hot chocolate was tiny, but what do you expect from a train?

As we got into the Cassablanca stops, the train started to fill out. Turns out that I took someone else’s seat, but who;s asking? For the rest of the trip I took a nap until a lady told me that we’re in Rabat now. Turns out she woke me up at Rabat Agdal instead of Ville but I got up all the same. Eventually I arrived, albeit a bit late, and explored the beautiful city of Rabat. I wish I took a tram but sadly I didn’t.

Trip 2: Rabat to Ben Guerir ft. The (Not So) High Speed Train Al Boraq

![NOTE] In Rabat and Casablanca, Al Boraq goes to Rabat Agdal and Casa-Voyageurs respectivley.

It was time to get back so I took a taxi to Rabat Agdal so I could take ride on the high speed train Al Boraq which is part of why I visited Morocco. Rabat Ville does not have the high speed train.

After some dinner at McDonalds for 65Dhs, I had to rush to get a ticket. I was hoping to use cash but the line was so long so I relented and used my card instead to buy the 170Dhs ticket back to Ben Guerir using Al Boraq and switching trains at Casa-Voyageurs and went down to the platform. Some waiting later the almighty Al Boraq pulled up and I took my seat. I was suprised that it was a double decker train. Though it’s second class, the seats are very comfortable even for a fatty like me. We then took off and I took a look at the cafe car and got an Orangina for 18Dhs. Again, it’s a train.

I was disappointed that the fastest we went was 150km/h (~93mph) which was well short of the 320km/h (200mph) I thought we’d go. Turns out that the Rabat-Casablanca only maxes out at 160km/h. If you want to reach high speeds, you’ll have to take Al Boraq from Ketina to Tangier, which I hope to do the next time I come. The trip took 45 minutes and honestly I’d rather take the conventional train since it doesn’t take much longer and it doesn’t require a stop.

At Casa-Voyageurs, I got some snacks before getting to the next train which was like the one I took in the morningm except it was far more crowsed and dark. Hard to take a nap here but the train was comfortable all the same. I reached Ben Guerir and took a 26Dhs taxi back to my accomodation.

Trip 3: Ben Guerir to Casablanca’s Mohammed V International Airport

I packed up and headed out with my mom who wanted to pass through a supermarket. Thankfully there was a closer taxi than the first trip so not as much walking. After dropping my mom off at the supermarket and saying goodbye, I headed to the station. At the station, I wanted to know what the price was since he didn’t turn on the meter and he said something like c’est comptif. Didn’t know what that meant and I thought it meant free but he then said vente which I knew meant twenty. I gave him 50Dhs and he gave me 20Dhs back, which means the price was actually trente meaning thirty.

Whatever.

I then got the ticket and was pleased to note I could book the ticket to the airport directly which was nice. Again the ticket was 17Dhs and I took the same train as before. Nothing interesting here except for me dosing off while the train staff was doing proof of purchase. I think the other people said I could figure it out at the station but nothing really happened. We then reached Casa Oasis station which is where you go to connect to the airport and I was suprised at how small the station was. Here there was an hour between now and the next train so I got some breakfast at the cafe across the street―it sucked. After that, I headed back and waited on the other platform for the train to the airport.

It arrived late but it was a decent train ride. Just know that you might not get seating and it can get cramped given everyone has their bags. We arrived and while it came late, that wouldn’t be the biggest delay as I’ll explain in another post.

General Observations

• The stations and trains are all very clean.
• The seats being in little rooms are weird.
• Neither the train operator ONCF’s website oncf.ma or their booking site www.oncf-voyages.ma is accessible outside Morocco so you’ll have to book through a third party using the options listed by The Man in Seat 61.
• Al Boraq between Rabat and Casablanca isn’t worth it.
• The train staff have got some insane drip.
• I should have taken more photos.
• I wish Zim had functioning passanger trains, there is no passenger service unless you count the expensive private train from SA Rovos.